Category: Musky / Animalic

Galaxolide®

Name: Galaxolide
Alternative Names: Hexahydrohexamethyl, Abbalide, Pearlide, Astrolide, Musk 50, HHCB
Aroma Description (Perfumer’s Notes): Musk, sweet, floral, fresh, powdery, clean, woody, powerful
Aptly, writer Claire Vukcevic[*] describes Galaxolide smell as ultra clean. The aromas are described as being soapy, slightly sharp, powdery, and almost aggressively clean “Cottony smell”.
Archetypal Fragrances: Tresor by Lancôme (1990)
Raw Material Family: Musk
Note: Base
Type: Molecules
Where From: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (IFF)
Emotional Rewards Prioritised: The aroma of Galaxolide commonly creates the following emotions: [visualizer id=”777″]The graph above shows what emotions Galaxolide often creates and the relative level of importance.

 

Commentary:

Galaxolide was first synthesized in 1965, and used in the late 1960s in some fabric softeners and detergents. High concentrations also became used in fine fragrances since the 1970’s. Perfumer Sophia Grojsman is regarded as being the one who brought it into high end perfumes [*] like White Linen Estee Lauder and Tresor de Lancome. It is used in her famous “Hug Me” accord that contains equal parts of Galaxolide, Methyl Ionone Gamma, and Iso E Super.

Galaxolide is classed as synthetic musk with a clean sweet musky floral woody odor used in fragrances.

Though, it has now been associated with environmental concerns [*].

Read More:

IFF Online Compendium

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🎯Here at Nathanieldavis.mc, I understand how important your training can be to advancing your career.

I also know that your training should be affordable, engaging, and professionally valuable.

That’s why I have designed an online Fragrance, Flavor and Sensory Training that is comprehensive and challenging, plus highly flexible for your lifestyle.

When you learn at NathanielDavis.mc you are making a great step to improve your professional value and set yourself for the best current and future fragrance and flavor opportunities.

Exaltolide® (Angelica Musk)

Name: Exaltolide®
Alternative Names: Angelica Musk, Cyclopentadecanolide
Aroma Description (Perfumer’s Notes): Description from Pell Wall: sweet, musky-animal, rich, herbal. From An introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis and David G Williams; a Blackberry, Musk that is Sweet and Delicate.

From Fulviomisi Aroma Profile : intense, sweet, soft, skin-like, ambrette, floral. cosmetic aspect. Diffusive. Whereas the Flavour Profile is: Vanilla bean, powdery heliotropine, creamy and liquorice, Light fruity, berry like, vanilla, creamy

Archetypal Fragrances: Dry down on Anaïs Anaïs (1978) by Cacharel
Raw Material Family: Musk, Synthetic Musk
Note: Base
Type: Molecules
Where From: Firmenich
Emotional Rewards Prioritised: The aroma of Exaltolide® commonly creates the following emotions:[visualizer id=”765″] The graph above shows what emotions Exaltolide® often creates and the relative level of importance.

 

Commentary:

Cyclopentadecanolide (Exaltolide) occurs in small quantities in angelica root essential oil and is responsible for its musklike odor.[*]

It is used as a musklike perfume fixative in fine fragrances and as a flavoring agent. It is a substitute for the extremely expensive animal musk.

The Firmenich data sheet on Exaltolide® states that it is “one of the finest synthetic musk notes that possesses a very natural quality.” Exaltolide® adds “depth and roundness to a wide variety of creations but it also has a synergistic effect on the bouquet of a fragrance.” It has an especially sensual effect on skin.

Read More:

Fulvio Misitano

Fragrantica

Learn More

🎯Here at Nathanieldavis.mc, I understand how important your training can be to advancing your career.

I also know that your training should be affordable, engaging, and professionally valuable.

That’s why I have designed an online Fragrance, Flavor and Sensory Training that is comprehensive and challenging, plus highly flexible for your lifestyle.

When you learn at NathanielDavis.mc you are making a great step to improve your professional value and set yourself for the best current and future fragrance and flavor opportunities.

Ethylene Brassylate

Name: Ethylene brassylate
Alternative Names: Musk T, Astrotone,1,4-dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione
Aroma Description (Perfumer’s Notes): musk, woody, floral, powdery, sweet, ambrette (Musk Mallow), spicy, vanilla, fruity, herbal, animalic, skin
Archetypal Fragrances: Coco Mademoiselle. Plus according to Elena Vosnaki’s excellent blog post it is in; Dove’s Cleansing Towelettes, Olay, Cover Girl, Max Factor and The Body Shop foundations.
Raw Material Family: Synthetic Musk
Note: Base
Type: Aroma Chemical / Molecule/
Emotional Rewards Prioritised: The aroma of Ethylene brassylate commonly creates the following emotions:[visualizer id=”677″]The graph above shows what emotions Ethylene brassylate often creates and the relative level of importance.

 

Commentary:

Ethylene brassylate is described by Elena Vosnaki as a “brassilic ester with floral woody facets, commonly used in cosmetics, because it acts as an odour neutraliser to the other chemicals used, as well as in fine fragrance.”Ethylene Brassylate (Musk T) is one of the cheaper priced synthetic musks.

Ethylene Brassylate is a Macrocyclic musk. Macrocyclic musks are the new generation of white musk molecules, and will eventually replace most if not all of the polycyclic musks. It is thought that Macrocyclic musks will eventually replace most if not all of the polycyclic musks. Polycyclic musks being the original “white musk” synthetics that were developed primarily for the laundry detergent segment of the market (via Claire Vukcevic on the fascinating Basnotese.net editorial piece “The Murky Matter of Musk“). Where she states that “people loved the smell of their laundry after using these laundry detergents, and soon there was a demand for that type of squeaky clean musk scent in perfume too.”

Irina on Basenotes.net states reminds us that Ethylene Brassylate (Musk T) is a macrocyclic Musk it has less environmental impact than Galaxolide a polycyclic*.

According to David Ruskin over on Basenotes you can make a fine accord with:

  • Aldehyde C14
  • Cedarwood Virginian
  • and Ethylene Brassylate.

In short, it is a base note that’s powdery, sweet, floral, ambrette, musk, woody. It had good fixative properties and an easy to use macrocyclic musk. It be can used up to 10%.

For Further Reading Try :

Musk Series 2: The Natural and Everything about Synthetic Musks