Name: Ethylene brassylate
Alternative Names: Musk T, Astrotone,1,4-dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione
Aroma Description (Perfumer’s Notes): musk, woody, floral, powdery, sweet, ambrette (Musk Mallow), spicy, vanilla, fruity, herbal, animalic, skin
Archetypal Fragrances: Coco Mademoiselle. Plus according to Elena Vosnaki’s excellent blog post it is in; Dove’s Cleansing Towelettes, Olay, Cover Girl, Max Factor and The Body Shop foundations.
Raw Material Family: Synthetic Musk
Note: Base
Type: Aroma Chemical / Molecule/
Emotional Rewards Prioritised: The aroma of Ethylene brassylate commonly creates the following emotions:[visualizer id=”677″]The graph above shows what emotions Ethylene brassylate often creates and the relative level of importance.

Commentary:

Ethylene brassylate is described by Elena Vosnaki as a “brassilic ester with floral woody facets, commonly used in cosmetics, because it acts as an odour neutraliser to the other chemicals used, as well as in fine fragrance.”Ethylene Brassylate (Musk T) is one of the cheaper priced synthetic musks.

Ethylene Brassylate is a Macrocyclic musk. Macrocyclic musks are the new generation of white musk molecules, and will eventually replace most if not all of the polycyclic musks. It is thought that Macrocyclic musks will eventually replace most if not all of the polycyclic musks. Polycyclic musks being the original “white musk” synthetics that were developed primarily for the laundry detergent segment of the market (via Claire Vukcevic on the fascinating Basnotese.net editorial piece “The Murky Matter of Musk“). Where she states that “people loved the smell of their laundry after using these laundry detergents, and soon there was a demand for that type of squeaky clean musk scent in perfume too.”

Irina on Basenotes.net states reminds us that Ethylene Brassylate (Musk T) is a macrocyclic Musk it has less environmental impact than Galaxolide a polycyclic*.

According to David Ruskin over on Basenotes you can make a fine accord with:

• Aldehyde C14
• Cedarwood Virginian
• and Ethylene Brassylate.

In short, it is a base note that’s powdery, sweet, floral, ambrette, musk, woody. It had good fixative properties and an easy to use macrocyclic musk. It be can used up to 10%.

For Further Reading Try :

Musk Series 2: The Natural and Everything about Synthetic Musks